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Compost pit — how to make it with your own hands? 95 photos of the best manufacturing options

Most owners of suburban plots face the need for the appearance of compost pits in their dachas. Composting facilities allow you to solve a variety of everyday problems: this includes the disposal of organic waste, and increasing the fertility of all types of soils. The use of compost is environmentally safe, cost-effective and efficient.

You can not waste your energy and buy composters in specialized stores, or you can make them yourself. However, there are many pitfalls in building a compost pit with your own hands, and only a competently made compost pit will allow you to get high-quality fertilizer, while avoiding various negative consequences.

Pits should be as far away from residential buildings as possible and located on the leeward side, since organic waste has an unpleasant appearance and smell. The recommended distance is at least 30 m from the dwelling.

Do not place pits close to drinking water sources. The optimal distance is 25 meters.

Take into account the terrain features. It is impossible to place pits on high ground: together with the precipitation, its contents will be carried around the site. You should not choose places on the slopes either: excess water reduces the rate of fermentation. A flat piece of land is best suited.

Pay attention to the trees next to the pits. Alder and birch will be a good neighborhood, but it is better not to put pits next to evergreen trees.

To maintain the correct moisture content of the compost, select an area in the shade.

Do not forget about the convenience of access to the pit and choose the most suitable place for you.

Arrangement of the pit

Many summer residents prefer not to equip compost pits and tend to use compost piles.The point is the simplicity of working with compost: it is easier to load waste, mix and unload humus. But from an aesthetic point of view, they are unattractive, and the simplicity of working with compost can also be achieved for pits if they are properly equipped.

Compost pit as it is

The maturation of the compost lasts from a year to two. Organic processing requires access to air, moisture, earthworms and soil organisms, a variety of waste types and the absence of certain of them. These conditions determine both the optimal places for composting pits and the variety of types of structures.

The optimal size is determined by the maturation time of the compost. Half of the pit is allocated for fresh waste (not older than two years), and the second — for already ripe compost.

An important factor is the temperature of the compost, which due to rotting rises to about 60 C. The larger the size, the higher the temperature and the more effectively weeds and pathogens are destroyed. A proper compost pit has the following parameters: depth — about 1 m, width — 1-2 m, length - up to 3 m.

It is advisable to divide the pit into two sections: one for fresh waste, the second for ripe compost. Or three: for fresh waste, for maturing compost and for ready-made.

The bottom of the structure should provide access to moisture and worms. It is not necessary to cover it with dense materials like slate, metal sheets or film. Tree bark, needles, straw and branches will serve as a good drainage material.

The pit should be closed from above, but in such a way as to provide air access.

There are different versions of compost pits in their design.

Earth pit

The simplest option. All you need is to dig a hole of suitable size, put drainage material on it, and waste on top. The structure is covered with a film, tarpaulin or grass.

If you plan to use the pit for more than one year, it is worth strengthening its walls by any means at hand — for example, slate, roofing material, plywood, etc.

Compost boxes

The most common option. Most often they are made of wood, but other materials are also acceptable, for example, slate.

How to make such a compost pit:

  • dig a hole of the specified size and depth up to 80 cm, after which the support bars are dug in
  • about 20 cm from the edges of the pit. The bars should be treated with a protective impregnation;
  • assemble the three walls of the box so that there are enough air holes in them (when
  • if necessary, they are drilled), and divided into two or three compartments;
  • install and align the box;
  • cover the bottom with drainage material;
  • fasten the front wall and cover.

Wooden parts need to be treated with a special impregnation, and then covered with acrylic paint in several layers. This will perform not only protective functions, but also decorative: the finished box will look neat and beautiful. Photos of such a compost pit will not even be ashamed to post online.

You can leave only one compartment in the drawer. To do this, the box is installed on an elevation so that there is about 30 cm between the ground and the lower edges. The compost will be selected from below through this hole. Fresh raw materials are laid on top.

Plastic containers

In fact, it is a variation of the compost box. Ordinary plastic boxes require improvement: they do not allow air and moisture to circulate, so the ventilation holes will need to be done independently. You can buy ready-made garden composters, they are equipped with everything necessary to ensure proper maturation of compost.

Semi-submerged bunker

This design can last for many seasons, is convenient to use and easy to maintain.

The installation of the structure is also simple:

  • they dig a hole about a meter deep;
  • along the boundaries of the pit, the formwork is constructed so that the concrete walls protrude about 1 m above ground level;
  • pour concrete;
  • after the concrete solidifies, the formwork is removed, and the bottom of the pit is filled with a concrete screed;
  • when the screed freezes, internal walls are constructed as necessary (this can be done with the help of formwork, wooden boards or other materials) and a cover made of mesh-netting and metal frames. When installing the roof of the hopper, it is necessary to leave ventilation holes.

An important point: since the compost in the bunker does not come into contact with the ground, it requires periodic watering and planting worms in it.

Ingredients for compost

Let's figure out what types of waste need to be used to get high-quality, macro- and microelement-rich compost.

Types of waste that are the basis of a good fertilizer:

  • grass (including weeds mown before flowering), flowers, straw;
  • food waste — fruit and vegetable peelings, berries, cereals, tea leaves, eggshells;
  • foliage, needles, branches, tree bark, sawdust;
  • paper (except colored and laminated), cardboard;
  • manure and bird droppings.

Additives that improve the quality of compost:

  • phosphorite and dolomite flour, as well as other mineral fertilizers;
  • ash;
  • earth — it should be poured over each subsequent layer of waste, this will increase the rate of fermentation.

You can't put it in the compost:

  • weeds with established seeds, live roots of wheatgrass and horsetail;
  • the tops of plants affected by false powdery mildew and phytophthora, especially tomatoes and potatoes;
  • plants treated with herbicides;
  • bones of fruit trees;
  • pet excrement;
  • inorganic waste:
  • protein waste (they exude a strong unpleasant odor when rotting and attract animals).


There are several simple rules, compliance with which will help to get high-quality compost more quickly:

  • stir the contents from time to time;
  • maintain the humidity level by watering the compost pile as needed;
  • dry waste should alternate with fresh, hard – with soft, brown – with green;
  • do not tamp the layers too tightly;
  • the optimal ratio of dry to wet material is 5 to 1;
  • sometimes plant worms and add accelerators of rotting processes. Accelerators are sold in specialized stores in the form of concentrates;
  • also, fermentation is accelerated by cow manure infused in water and some types of plants (for example, dandelion, valerian, yarrow and chamomile).

Following these recommendations, you will be able to get an environmentally friendly and nutrient-rich fertilizer, the quality of which you can be 100% sure.

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

How to make a compost pit

The type of flower garden is an irregular flowerbed. It differs significantly from its predecessor. Firstly, it is its durability, due to the fact that it is formed from different plants. They bloom sequentially, replacing each other, and you can enjoy such beauty throughout the flowering period. The stages of flowering of plants are replaced in waves. In addition to flowering plants, it is worth using evergreen flowers, this will help to keep the flowerbed green all the time.

Photo of a compost pit